Why would you use anything but wood glue on wood? 
Most wood glue is not water proof. If the stock is subjected to rain, the wood workers glue will release. I have a wood crack repair that I engineered printed in Brownell's Gunsmithing Kinks book that details difficult stock repairs. The crack you have is actualy a good candidate for the procedure since the stock ferul will cover some of the epoxy entry point. The process needs a open tip type needle or glue syringe. Basically, you use a drill that is a bit smaller than the needle tip. Drill a hole down threw the end of the crack where the ferul will cover the hole. Drill the hole so it will intersect the crack as best you can. Fill your syringe with the epoxy. force the tip of the syringe into the smaller hole. That will force the crack to spread. Tape off the majority of the crack tightly with electrical tape leaving only the very bottom of the crack visible. In hard to tape areas such as the top where the syringe is, cover that area with play dough and tape over it to seal the crack. Then with fast steady pressure, inject the glue into the spread apart crack. Hopefully, you will see it ooze out at the open end of the crack where the crack ends. I'v used a few different glues over the years but have a good one for stock applications.
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/tape-glues-and-adhesives/glues-and-epoxy/1832344?x429=true&gclid=CjwKCAjwssD0BRBIEiwA-JP5rCn-LHxKDjtKuSLQxqNNpt2bKDSQ8mw9aS0T9B1srVsA__LftrsdJBoCN9AQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds It is loose enough to go threw the syringe well and flow threw the crack with medium pressure. It drys slightly flexible to cope with the expansion and contraction of wood. The only down side is it will be a bit runny for a couple hours until it sets up. So once you have the crack clamped up, again, tape over the now glued crack incase the crack is still open, the epoxy can weep out before it sets up. Good luck with it.