Rockauto? Be careful.....

[xtriggerman]

YUP, RV got that right. The pully on the Gates is the same pully on the Mazda. I just finished putting the OEM on a little while ago and it wasnt the idler bearing at all. ITS THE SAME DAM PROBLEM THE ULTRA POWER ECONO HAD!!! Freaking ram eye hole went oblong like the first marvel of penny pinching. The ram does indeed have a bushing that apears to have the abrasion resistance of pot metal!! You cant make this up..... Look for your self.

  Pully to ram distance when new


Ram end close enough to bounce of spinning pully causing belt chirp


Heres the culprit up close


  Back when I worked at Auto Ordnance, it was my job to go Rockwell C a sample of any vender parts we got in for the 1911. If I remember right, sears had to be just under 40. Once they came in at 36C and I sent all 3000 of them back to the heat treaters.
 So all these aftermarket buyers bought thousands of these tensioners, put their name on them and now must be getting a raw behind from the flood of complaints!  Gotta Love it. Send that tech back to the rice paddies! Lucky if thats all that happens to him......

[branflakes]

When you depressed the tensioner, was it hard to compress? Did it fight you or feel like you had to use a lot of torque?

With that style of tensioner you HAVE to let the tensioner release slowly. It is not a spring. Once you apply pressure to the release hex, you can feel it slowly release pressure. Once it's completely compressed it's easier to hold.  I use my 3/8 extended handle ratchet and the handle doesn't bend as tension is released. Letting itself compress.  Like trying to compress a new shock.

[xtriggerman]

When you depressed the tensioner, was it hard to compress? Did it fight you or feel like you had to use a lot of torque?

With that style of tensioner you HAVE to let the tensioner release slowly. It is not a spring. Once you apply pressure to the release hex, you can feel it slowly release pressure. Once it's completely compressed it's easier to hold.  I use my 3/8 extended handle ratchet and the handle doesn't bend as tension is released. Letting itself compress.  Like trying to compress a new shock.

 These tensioners are hydraulic and give a little at a time. Nothing wrong with those, they tension up slow and easy. Getting at it is only with a box end 17mm and another box end hooked on to the end of that one for leverage. The tensioner nut is only about an inch away from the car frame. 3rd time in, it goes pretty quick even for me!

[branflakes]

Di you get one that worked? Or did you make one using old wheel gun parts that you had in a parts bin?

[xtriggerman]

Yeah, the OEM Mazda unit has real bushings in it. I guess the Chinese haven't figured that out yet. Most favored nation trading staus...... my butt. more like most favored profit margin nation.

[Tainted]

There was an auto supplier I used in the past, over 10 years ago. Parts were super cheap but looked really good and all worked out perfect. I can't remember the name, as I searched today, Rock Auto sounds familiar but their web layout does not. Am Auto Parts also seems familiar and I'm also pretty certain that is the one I used to love.
 
I need to replace wheel bearings and struts in my sons 2009 Kia Sedona. We're getting rid of it next year so I definitely want to stay cheap. I'm hoping it doesn't become a can of worms and I have to replace more in the suspension, but I definitely also hear a slight popping when I turn.

Sorry to hear about your experience from Rock Auto, I was searching parts there and there's so much to choose from I had to give up for the time being. When I get time I'll have to pull up my parts from both those sites and compare.