It's YOUR rifle. It should be what YOU want it to be!!!
So, that being said, there are a few things that I don't use unless the customer is adamant. BLO is one of them, modern poly finishes are another. Yes, there are times for both but in my opinion they just aren't the best things to use.
And color..... man, some woods are so hard that in order to get stain or dye to penetrate into them the surface has to be roughed up with sandpaper. Most often that isn't a problem but in the case of a "restoration" rather than a "refinish" I don't use sandpaper. So color will be what the customer wants within constraints placed on it by the wood. This specifically includes the Russian Artic Birch stocks. After the finish is removed they are smoother than a babies arse and highly resistant to both stain and dye. The wood fibers are simply so close that the moisture can't get between them.
I no longer accept stocks that have been cleaned with water unless the customer specifically sends a note on the order form indicating that it's OK if all cartouches and serial numbers may be removed. Water damages the wood fibers and depending on the density of the wood the damage can be extremely deep. It also will "raise" the cartouches making them virtually impossible to save. Woods with variable densities will likely be "washboarded" with dense areas less injured that less dense areas.
It is FAR BETTER that you not remove the finish, let me do it. Paint and/or varnish removers DO affect the wood and make it far more difficult to achieve the deep shine that is kinda my trademark. I can sometimes remove a finsh and with only 0000 steel wool have the stock ready to finish. If a chemical remover has been used that's impossible, sandpaper is required to restore the surface to a condition where I can finish it.
WHEN ORDERING -- I will send you a "order form" that gives me the information I need to finish your stock and get it back to you. It lets you convey to me in one place what you want done to your stock and assures that we are "on the same page."
WHEN SHIPPING TO ME -- A lot depends on the stock. If it's an SKS I don't need anything special. If it's a rifle that uses barrel bands it's extremely helpful if you send the bands along with the stock. While it's not a guarantee as the barrel might separate the stock and handguard, it will help me assure that the finish isn't so thick as to prevent reassembly without damaging the wood and/or finish. It's only happened once but once is too often. Remember that the finish I routinely use takes up to 15 coats to achieve the deep "shellac look" and that's not an insignificant thickness. With the barrel bands I can plan a bit better, perhaps take a thousandths of an inch of wood off before starting to apply the finish and avoid probems.
CARE AND MAINTENANCE -- The finish I use is propriatary and will be varied depending on the condition of the wood. Dry stocks have initial finishes that have more oils in them, allowing the stock to absorb the oils while the solvents are evaporating. Heavily oiled stocks will have more solvent in the finish allowing them to penetrate and blend with the oil already in the stock. The final 8-10 coats will be my "balanced" blend that provides the deep shine. UNLESS SPECIFICALLY TOLD NOT TO, I will apply one layer of Birchwood Casey stock wax prior to shipment. This carnauba based wax is, perhaps, overkill, but just as the finish protects the wood, the wax protects the finish. It's hard enough so that it doesn't allow the finish to be abraided by shipment and is very, very easy to "touch up." So I strongly recommend that customers purchase a small bottle of this wax and, if their rifle gets scraped up rub on another coat. It's really good stuff.
