Frisco Petes outstanding write up of his build
http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=99175.msg1197669;boardseen#new
I COPIED THAT POST TO THIS THREAD TO SAVE BOUNCING AROUND - HERE IT IS:I have been ailing for some time with BRD. It seems that after you use your AR15 for a while and get more familiar with it, you find there are certain things you would change or do differently next time. I know that
prodgi has come down with it recently, and it waits to strike others.
One of these defining BRD moments came when my daughter shot my defensive RRA 16” AR carbine and complained about it being so front heavy. It was very front heavy due to the heavy full-profile barrel. Moreso than I planned on when I ordered it. I was itching to try a 1-7” twist as well. I also decided that I would rather not have the A2 front sight in the EOTech sight picture all the time and that a monolithic-type rail would be a nice improvement. All this despite that it functioned 100% and was very accurate. Why fix it if it ain’t broke? BRD is why…
The problem was that nobody really made exactly the format upper I wanted – and certainly not at an affordable price anyway.
Onepoint was quick to suggest building my own upper and claimed it was
no harder to put an upper together than to do a lower (which I’ve done.) Then he started PMing me with good upper parts deals. When I finally found a buyer for my current RRA upper, I hit the internet hard and the orders went out…
I know that this is a giant long post - longer than a politician’s speech, so if you just want to scroll down and look at the pictures and go on to the next thread (
which is probably shorter than a politician’s memory), fine. But I hope somebody will gain something from all the words here as well.
BUILDING...I could just show some pictures of the finished product, but I thought some people would like to know just how hard it is to put together an upper yourself. Since I have no outstanding mechanical ability, I am the perfect guinea pig to test
Onepoint’s statement.
Of course
first you need a budget. My goal was to build a superior mil-spec-ish upper for the same price as I could order a complete upper of similar type from Rock River. That would be around $630.
Second is to plan a cohesive build – one in which all the elements work together and are of similar quality. You don’t want to get one top-grade item and cheapen the whole works with some budget parts used as well. Or use a mish-mash of parts that reflect a loss of focus as to what purpose the whole will be for. There is a lot of good advice to be found on this forum (and some that is so-so), but dialogue with others helps focus your mind and opens you up to possibilities.
Third is to get the proper tools together and the necessary instruction. In this case, this means getting an AR upper vise block and armorer wrench. You might want a tube installation wrench as well, though you can improvise here. If somebody will lend you their tools, so much the better. In this case a fellow board member did that for me (
thanks!) I also reviewed YouTube vids on upper builds and mainly used this one
AR-MPR AR-15 Build: Upper Part 2: Barrel, Gas Block, Gas Tube because he installs the same quad rail as I was going to use. There is also an excellent AR build sticky in the FAQ section above by
Onepoint:
AR-15 Builder FAQ (lots of pics) Everyone has different AR ideas and needs, and this one was intended to be a serious defensive carbine upper - that some might also refer to as a SHTF AR. So it uses more mil-spec type parts than you might with some other builds. If they ever call up the 5th Internet Commando Regiment I will be ready!
I don’t know if I met the grade, but I think I used enough mil-spec parts to keep most of the “mil-spec Nazis” at bay hopefully! I failed miserably in the “Big Name” area, as the Colt/LMT/etc name doesn’t appear on any parts.
Onepoint was instrumental in finding the parts I needed and also in finding good deals on them as well. He has a lot of knowledge in this area and I tried to listen. Basically the major upper components came from Palmetto State Armory.
In keeping with the intended purpose and build plan this is what I went with when it came to the components and some of the reasons I chose them:
The mid-length gas system is a superior one to the standard carbine length for 16” ARs as it is much easier on the BCG parts, so going middy was a given to improve part life and decrease problems. A good 1-7” chrome-lined mil-spec barrel allows me to shoot all the heavy defense bullets I like including Mk 262 77-grain loads besides my usual 69-grain OTM load.
Onepoint and I had a nice discussion on accuracy vs. longevity/mil-spec in AR15 barrels, and for this AR’s intent, the mil-spec barrel was opted for. My previous barrel was way too heavy so with this one I went with a lighter A2-profile. I see no logical reason to pick an M4 barrel with the welded section to make it legal other than looks(?) I want
all of my barrel length/rifling at work creating velocity and, oddly enough, don’t happen have a M203 grenade launcher. This whole barrel area is one area that you can really go over budget in when you look at some of the tasty high-end choices!
Barrel: PSA 16'' Hammer Forged Chrome Lined, Mid-length Barrel is made of a proprietary blend of Hammer-Forged chrome molly vanadium "4150" alloy made by FN that is referred to as "Machine Gun Steel" by virtue of its use in FN's M249 and M240 weapons. The hammer forging process work-hardens the steel, making it more durable. In addition, the chrome process for the bore allows for a lining almost twice as thick as a standard M16 for enhanced durability. Chambered in 5.56 NATO, with a 1/7 twist to allow effective use of heavier grain bullets. M4 barrel extension for enhanced feeding capability under high rates of fire, and a reliable carbine gas system. A2 style profile is Mil-spec phosphate coated to withstand corrosion. Barrels are individually high pressure tested and magnetic particle inspected to ensure quality and reliability.To insure compatibility I went with the PSA A3 upper. A flattop is the only way to go nowadays with the proliferation of good optics. I would buy it complete with dust cover, forward assist rather than piddling around with that small stuff for next to no savings.
Upper Receiver: PSA A3 Complete Our complete A3 Flattop Upper Receiver. This forged 7075-T6 A3 AR upper is made to MIL-SPECS and hard coat anodized black for durability. Featuring machined T marks, M4 feed ramps and mil-spec finish. These uppers are made for us right here in the USA by a mil-spec manufacturer.The bolt and carrier is a highly stressed component of the build. While commercial AR bolts seem to work fine for most AR uses and for me in the past, I chose to go with the heavy M16 bolt in a mil-spec grade for this one. This bolt specs look the same as the D-D or Bravo Co. carrier group and I would suspect are from the same source and just privately branded. One of the new ion-bonded BCGs would be great, but would bust the budget.
BCG: PSA Premium Complete Full Auto M16 5.56 BCGMade in USA. Bolt is made of Mil-spec Carpenter 158 steel, shot-peened, MPI & HPT. Gas key is secured with grade 8 fasteners and staked per mil-spec. Bolt carrier is parkerized outside and chrome lined inside. Milspec Carpenter No. 158® steel, Shot Peened Bolt. Chrome Lined Carrier (AUTO). Chrome Lined Gas Key Gas Key Hardened to USGI Specifications. Gas Key Grade 8 Hardened Fasteners. Tool Steel Extractor. Extractor Spring. Black Extractor Insert. Mil-Spec O-Ring.I wanted a quality free-float 1-piece quad rail to relieve any pressure on the barrel for optimum accuracy. I also wanted a monolithic rail system as well. Weight is also something to consider. Daniel Defense makes an excellent Lite quad rail, but
Onepoint pointed me to a Midwest Ind. quad rail on clearance at a killer price - that is a quality item and weighs virtually the same as the D-D Lite. The MI T-series also mounts very solidly and this 10” one covers the gas block.
Free Float Quad Rail: Midwest Industries T-10 Gen 1 Barrel nut supplied.
Here is a pic of installing the barrel and quad rail. After clamping the upper/upper vise block in your vise - then the barrel simply slips into the upper receiver and is located properly by a pin. Make sure your barrel has the locator pin if you do a build. Next the barrel thread is threaded onto the receiver against a shoulder on the barrel. In my case there is a second nut that tightens the quad rail when installed. Back that off enough to not interfere. While you can probably get by without one, using a torque wrench here takes the guess work out of it. There is a ½” opening in the barrel wrench for one. Use some anti-seize grease on the threads.
You have to stick the gas tube through a hole in the barrel nut so you will have to line up the holes by turning the nut a bit. While some have run into problems getting it just right here, this part went super good for me and I checked the line-up by removing the upper from the vise and doing a visual from the rear.
The next job is installing the gas block. I went with a Yankee Hill low profile one (YHM-9384 - slim line low profile gas block - clamp-on – another
Onepoint recommendation) that clamps on via Allen screws and fits under the rail. Be sure your rail and gas block are compatible here! The gas tube fits in the gas block and fastens in place with a tiny roll pin. This is where I had major problems. I either needed some type of roll pin starter punch or 4 hands. After looking in vain locally for some type of starter punch, I got lucky when a son showed up and lent me his 2 hands. It went in so slick it was ridiculous then!
The gas block butts up against a raised portion of the barrel and you can use a pencil to help locate it over the hole as well as doing a visual. Stick the tube thru the barrel nut into the upper receiver and tighten the gas block down carefully.
The picture of the gas block and tube installation came out blurry, but you get the idea:
Next we install the one-piece free-float quad rail by simply screwing it on the exposed outer threads of the barrel nut. In this instance you might need to back off the nut that tightens the quad rail a bit first. Then fully tighten the quad. You probably will have to back off just a hair to line up the upper rail of the quad with the rail on the upper receiver. Install the set screw and double check, then tighten up the nut that goes against the quad rail. There is a special tool that fits the nut and does this, much like the castle nut tool for the gas tube nut on tactical stocks, but you can improvise. I used the $12 tool here. Tighten the locator screw in my particular case. Use blue Loctite. It was more technical to type this than to actually do it. Other rails attach differently, but this one is simple, really.
The last step is the installation of the flash hider. While the A2 hider uses either a crush or peel washer to line up the bottom of the hider with the bottom of the barrel, the Vortex simple threads to a stop and has no line-up necessary. So it is very simple.
With that you are done with anything technical.
The monolithic free-floating quad rail really gives a much nicer and more put-together look than the non-floating SureFire M85 did on the old upper (
top upper in pic below)
While I can see the need to have an extended-latch charging handle, most stick out too far and snag on stuff. Current CQB techniques have the operator racking the charging handle to the rear using their support side hand only. This is done in one swift and strong movement. With the operator’s firing grip maintained, the weapon again has a loaded chamber, and the shooter can immediately bring a hot weapon back into the fight. The current use of extended tactical latches has made this movement much more efficient. The only drawback to this type of manipulation is all the force used to rack the charging handle rearward goes into the extended tactical latch and is then transferred into the roll pin. With this scenario, the entire operation becomes contingent on the sheer strength of this tiny 1/16” roll pin, and its’ ability to take continuing blows. BCM and Vltor teamed up to make their BCMGunfighter charging handle. They made use of internal redesigns to direct the force off of the roll pin and into the body of the charging handle during support hand only manipulations.
I chose to go with the Mod 4 medium extension. So far I really like it a lot. There really is no install for the charging handle and BCG – they just drop in like usual.
Charging Handle: BCMGunfighter Mod 4
Believe it or not, picking the front BUIS was one of the harder tasks. Originally I was going to get one down the road a ways. But with the build all coming together except for the front BUIS, I decided to use some of that money I saved and get one. I would like to thank everybody for their input on this thread:
AR Flip-up Front Sight?. The consensus was to go with the Midwest Ind. flip-up that offers good quality at a good price.
I was about the hit “Submit Order” on this one when I stepped back and did some soul-searching. I concluded that judging from my experience with my Daewoo DR-200 that the HK-style front sight picture is not my favorite. Looking at my other similar rifles that I like the peep sights on, I noticed that
all of them – the AR15 A2, M1 Garand, FAL used more of a A2/M4 sight picture instead of the HK circle-in-a-circle approach. So that eliminated the MI BUIS.
The Troy sight came up as an extremely solid, if pricey option. You can get the M4 sight picture version with them. Well, I reviewed the thread and j
wperry’s comment “
If you do get the Troy sights, get the ones from Noveske, you'll have a cool little roll mark on them.“ stuck out. The Troy logo that faces front has all the beauty of the ingredient label on a can of peas, or an industrial component part number. While Noveske’s logo has a real classy and tasteful look that adds to the looks of the complete rifle. So I ponied up an extra $10 - art for art’s sake…
Other Parts: Smith Vortex flash hider – this is THE flash hider if you want to eliminate virtually all flash. The only drawback may be that it lacks the sold bottom of the A2 that eliminates dust kick-up, but for me that is not as much as an issue compared to its superior flash suppression.
Midwest Ind. rail-mount sling swivel.
Already owned upper accessories: A.R.M.S. 40L rear BUIS. EOTech optic. Magpul XTR rail covers.
All that remained was to mount the EOTech back on with its GG&G QD mount and the A.R.M.S. 40L rear BUIS. Then the sling swivel mount was attached to the quad rail along with the Specter Gear Patrol sling. Lastly the Magpul XTR rail panels were put on the remaining part of the quad rail where you hold it with your hand to eliminate the cheese grater effect. These little panels come in 3 colors so I mixed ‘n matched for a camouflage effect.
COMPLETE FINALLYWas
Onepoint right? Could just about anybody assemble an AR15 upper? Was it as easy to do as the lower? Yes on all accounts. In fact, discounting the delay on the gas tube roll pin, it was
faster for me to assemble the upper than when I did the lower, even though both were first time tries. I have to thank our AR15 build guru
Onepoint for all his guidance and help. He really was a terrific resource and saved me enough cash here and there that I could splurge on the Noveske sight.
Now I have ordered my own AR Armor wrench and upper vise block and am set to go again…
I used my existing lower, which is a Rock River Arms and has the excellent 2-stage National Match trigger as its heart. The grip is a TangoDown and the stock is a Vltor Carbine stock that uses a mil-spec tube. The mag well does just fine with Magpul P-Mags as shown in the pics.
Was it successful? I haven’t had a chance to fire it yet, but I’m sure there will be no surprises there. One of the main goals was weight reduction and I lost 1 pound of weight in the front with the new upper. That can be significant in the long run and when climbing the mountains we have here in Utah. Discounting the Noveske sight that wasn’t provided for with the RRA either - it came in about $5 cheaper than the RRA upper that was the target price and has all the mil-spec goodies including the BCG and A2-profile barrel.
I think that the upper looks better and will be more functional than the one it replaced.
Here is a later picture of this AR with a Nikon M-223 2-8x BDC scope in a GG&G QD mount attached in place of the EOTech for long range precision and light varmint shooting. The rear of the scope barely clears the rear BUIS.
A later view with ladder-style covers replacing the original rail panel covers. In addition the sling is mounted using a QD swivel mounted on the side instead of the original strap setup.
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PART 2 – DEPLOYING THE THINGDid I mention that that the upper alone was not the only consideration in the whole defensive AR15 carbine equation?
Some scenarios where a defensive AR might be needed require a bit of discretion as to “showing the goods”. A disaster evacuation or other consideration may not warrant open carry of your long arm or alarming people who don’t look at things like we do. Your regular “assault rifle” case or gun case says “rifle” in big letters. I want something more discreet.
This is where the other “part” that I ordered comes in. It is the Column II Sling Bag from California Competition Works. You can fit the split-apart upper and lower from a 16” AR15 inside easily. There are also plenty of pockets inside and out for cleaning and repair gear, batteries, optional optics, and extra magazines. Plus anything else you might want if you needed to deploy your rifle. You might want some additional padding between you and the rifle as well. And while mine is in a color that blends in well and looks a bit tactical, it doesn’t scream “rifle inside”. Nobody would ever know.
Here it is with the AR15 inside – access is from the part next to your back – so you need to remove it first – not really a problem in its intended role:
On your back the wide straps are comfortable and the weight isn’t bad at all:
