1911 TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

[Frisco Pete]

1911 TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

In response to the large number of forum members who have the 1911 format pistol here is a troubleshooting guide that may help answer some of your questions.  Because of the large number and variations of 1911s made from different manufacturers, many countries, and of differing quality grades over the last 95+ years, and the issues of maintenance that these pistols have received, it is a fact of life that some trouble may pop up eventually with this pistol design.  No, I am not a 1911 gunsmith (so don't PM me your questions!) but have compiled this FAQ section from various sources including the outstanding  "Basic Tips for the M1911 Fan" by R.K. Campbell that appeared in Shotgun News and other sources such as Wilson Combat.  Hopefully this section will be a work in progress and address all the troubleshooting issues of John Browning's seminal design.

FAILURES TO FEED
Bad extractor, bad magazine, bad magazine spring, rough feed ramp, or  poor ammunition.  Begin with the ammunition.

MAGAZINE FAILS TO EJECT
The magazine catch is too tight or the grip screws are protruding into the magazine.  The trigger bow may be contacting the magazine.  Replace parts as indicated.

SLIDE FAILS TO LOCK ON LAST SHOT
Magazine may be worn, magazine spring weak, or the plunger tube may be loose.  Replace parts as needed.

THUMB SAFETY IS BINDING
The plunger tube could be bent or the safety bent.  (More common with ambidextrous safety designs.)  The sear or hammer could be rough or have burrs.

SPENT CASE IN THE EJECTION PORT
The shooter may not be gripping the pistol tightly enough or the ejector or extractor may be damaged.

MALFUNTIONS – “STOVE PIPE JAMS”
The recoil spring may be too heavy for the loads in use.

FAILURE TO EXTRACT
A broken extractor could be the problem or a combination of a dirty chamber and off specification ammunition.  Clean and inspect first.

THE SLIDE DOES NOT FULLY CLOSE
Almost always poor ammunition but sometimes a bent hammer strut or an over-long link.

THE HAMMER FALLS TO HALF-COCK AFTER THE PISTOL IS FIRED
There is insufficient engagement between the hammer and sear.  Replace the parts.

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BREAK-IN
Like a new engine and other devices requiring lubrication and close fitting, the M1911 may require a modest break-in period in order for the parts to settle in.  Burrs and high spots are eliminated during this break-in.  Be certain to use quality lubricant during this time.

LUBRICATION
Many a new 1911 owner has mistakenly blamed his 1911 for function problems when the true culprit was a lack of lubrication.  If the pistol malfunctions from the start, the pistol is at fault.  If it fires a magazine or two, then begins to malfunction, you have neglected proper lubrication.  When preparing the pistol for carry, a light amount of lubrication is fine, but when engaging in a long range session, firing substantial amounts of ammunition, use adequate lubrication.  The long bearing surfaces, the barrel hood and barrel bushing as well as the cocking block on the bottom of the slide should be lubricated.  Larry Vickers  also notes in an article in Shotgun News: “…all firearms work better with lube, but some work better than others with little or no lube… the M1911 is another pistol that needs lube to work reliably [Along with the Beretta 92/M9].  Examples of pistols that are well known to work reliably with very little lube are the various Glocks and HK USP series.”
See the post below this section for Larry Vickers 1911 lubrication procedure and recommendations. 

SAFETY CHECK
Check to see that gun is not loaded.  The hammer should be cocked and the thumb safety on for the first check.  While pressing the grip safety, pull the trigger.  The hammer should not fall.
Next, try to move the cocked hammer to the rear.  It should show no movement.  If a faint click is heard, this means the sear moved slightly when the trigger was pressed with the safety on.
One particular brand of 1911 has this problem a lot, even though the trigger action is sometimes good.  The safety is quite soft and spongy on these pistols.  Replace with quality aftermarket parts.

MAGAZINES
Magazines are the heart of the pistol.  GI magazines were, and are, fine for hardball ammunition, usually worked well, and were inexpensive.  Modern magazines from Chip McCormick, Metalform and Wilson Combat present the cartridge nose at a higher angle in relation to the feed ramp and chamber.  This provides greater feed reliability as the bullet nose is fed directly into the chamber.
Brownell’s offers a special magazine latch for those troublesome clone guns that are not quite up to specifications.  This part raises the height of the magazine in the magazine well, moving the magazines feed angle more in line with the chamber.  This is a small thing that may cure feed related problems.
Why won't the slide stop drop on an empty magazine?  According to Wilson Combat’s FAQ:  Typically this is caused because the magazine is new. The forward portion of the polymer follower has not rounded enough to disengage the sharp edge of the magazine. To correct this simply depress the follower with one finger and with another finger push the rear of the follower forward slightly, do this between 5 and 10 times. The slide should now drop on the empty magazine.

FEED RAMP
While the new style follower in our premium magazines cures most feed problems, often we find a rough feed ramp.  Polishing or throating the feed ramp may be done carefully, patiently, by a skilled hand.  The important thing is not to cut too deep, causing an unsafe condition with insufficient case head support.
The chamber mouth must be carefully radiused, preserving but smoothing the step between the ramp and the barrel.  A part of the polish often overlooked is that the chamber should be polished.  The bullet or cartridge case mouth often bumps into the top of the chamber.  This area should be smooth to allow the bullet nose to transition from the feed ramp to the chamber.
      
EXTRACTOR
This can be a reoccurring problem with both older M1911s and some new production pistols.  This is a fairly inexpensive  replacement, so there is no reason to go cheap on this one.  Just the same, the extractor is often made of inferior steel instead of good quality spring steel.  Abuse is probably the culprit more often than wear when a M1911 extractor malfunctions.
If the extractor is abused by dropping the slide on a chambered cartridge, forcing the extractor to jump over the rim, excess wear can ruin the extractor.  It is not designed to jump over the case rim in this manner.  The spring steel is overstretched and the extractor claw will be forced too far outward to work properly.
A temporary field expedient is to remove the extractor, place one end in the extractor slot, and bend the extractor to its original position.  This may restore the extractor long enough to finish a match.
The replacement extractor has to be fitted to the particular pistol.  While the 1911 is supposed to headspace on the cartridge rim, in reality the extractor controls headspace in most pistols.

BREECH FACE
The breech face doesn’t get much attention unless it is rough and in need of polish.  Check the firing pin tunnel and breech face occasionally for debris and shavings.

SPRINGS
Springs should be replaced periodically just as you replace the shocks on a car.  When the recoil spring has lost an inch or so of its free length, it is time for replacement.  I [R.K. Campbell] have used Wolff springs for so long with such good results I seldom use anything else.
The 16-pound wind is good for most uses but heavy duty .45s that digest a regular diet of +P or “pin” loads are fitted with the 18-pound wind and still function fine with hardball.  The recoil spring should be replaced every 3-4000 rounds as a rule of thumb.  This is an inexpensive investment in reliability.
Magazine springs should be replaced from time to time, although I believe they are longer lived than recoil springs.

PLUNGER TUBE
The plunger tube and slide stop occasionally break in high round count pistols but seldom cause a pistol to stop working.  It is not unknown for the slide stop to protrude into the magazine well and catch the tip of some bullet styles.  Filing the end of the stop will cure this problem.
A slide stop may wallow in the link due to a poor fit.  An oversize slide stop will cure this problem.  I do not mean oversize as in an enlarged speed type slide stop but one with a greater shaft diameter.  I [R.K. Campbell] have used the Chip McCormick brand with good results.
Keep an eye on the plunger tube as it may need to be restaked or replaced as the round count reaches 10,000 rounds of full-power ammunition.  It is a good idea to maintain grips near the original specification to support the plunger tube.  Smith and Alexander is a good choice, stronger and more attractive than the factory product.  Avoid plastic grips that do not support the plunger tube.

FIRING PIN STOP
If it doesn’t have a tight fit, the firing pin stop may drop out of place during recoil, releasing the firing pin and tying the piece up.  In some extreme cases the firing pin and spring may even take flight!  This was much more common with GI 1911s than nowadays.  You can peen the firing pin stop for a tight fit.  Check the fit by removing the stop, firing pin, and spring, and then reinsert the stop only in its channel.  If it falls out when the is no pressure from the firing pin it should be more tightly fitted.

GRIP SCREWS
A common problem is too-long grip screws or a worn out grip screw bushing that allows the grip screw to protrude into the magazine well, making insertion and removal of the magazine difficult.  Wilson Combat grip screws and bushings are a safe bet to avoid this problem.  When you are using the special slim-line grips from Wilson Combat that have proven so popular, be certain to use the proper size short grip screws and bushings.

A CRISP TRIGGER
Good gunsmiths use aftermarket trigger and action parts to achieve a clean, crisp break and quick trigger reset.  If you desire a clean break of 4 pounds or less, use top quality internal parts.  Wilson Combat and Ed Brown are among the leaders in this field.  The standard parts may be of good material, as in late model Colts, but sometimes they are of materials not well suited to refinement, especially in the cheaper or foreign made 1911s.
A little cleaner action by polishing is one thing, reducing engagement surface another.  The smoothest, lightest trigger demands a trigger, sear, disconnector and perhaps a custom grade hammer as well.

FULL LENGTH GUIDE RODS?  
These were designed to improve cycling and keep the recoil spring from binding up.  Increasing accuracy is not the intention, but one could slightly improve accuracy by helping slide lockup.  According to Jim Clark Jr. the full-length guide rod is probably at its best when using loads that would “kink up a regular spring like a chainsaw.”  The guide rod enhances reliability as long as the user does not let the additional complications of the device and pistol take-down deter regular maintenance.

WHAT CAN I DO TO IMPROVE ACCURACY?
To obtain maximum accuracy a match grade barrel and bushing can be installed combined with a tightened slide to frame fit. An improved trigger pull and sights will make it easier to produce maximum accuracy with your pistol.  A "Group Gripper"™ from Wilson Combat can easily and inexpensively improve accuracy.  This utilizes a special barrel link that engages a leaf spring located in the head of the guide rod which forces the barrel into the locking lugs under heavy spring tension. This results in a more consistent lock up from shot to shot thus producing improved accuracy.  See www.wilsoncombat.com/a_guide_rods_gg.asp

HOW CAN I MAKE MY PISTOL MORE RELIABLE?
Reliability work is the most important thing that you could have done to your pistol and should be the first thing you do. There are several steps that should be taken to improve reliability. Polish the feed ramp, throat www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=56801.0 barrel, polish and adjust the extractor, adjust breech face clearance, polish breech face, check the ejector for tightness, install new recoil spring, check the chamber depth, adjust if necessary and lower and flair back the ejection port on pre series 80 models.

**To insure maximum reliability quality magazines and ammunition should always be used**

For a scan of the Colt 1911 Model O Armorer's Guide see this post:  www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=56801.0

[Frisco Pete]

LUBRICATING THE 1911
BY LARRY VICKERS  vickerstactical.com/tactical-tips/lubricating-the-1911/

Let me start off by saying the myth of over-lubing a weapon is exactly that – a myth. You might have some excess lube fly in your face while shooting or seep onto your hand, but excessive lubricant affecting reliable function is fiction. I have never seen it even once in nearly 30 years of my experience with military small arms. I have seen the WRONG lubricant used, specifically in cold weather, which can definitely cause malfunctions, but too much lube shutting down a weapon, 1911 or otherwise, just does not happen.

What definitely will shut down a gun, and does frequently, is no lube or too little lube, meaning the lubricant is gone in minimal firing. That may work fine in a carry piece but for serious range sessions you have to lubricate the firearm often. During my classes I recommend in the morning before training and after lunch break because whatever you put on in the AM is gone by then. I prefer a wet lube like Militech for range use as it easy to put on but a grease like TW25B works well for carry or field use as it tends to stay put and works well in a variety of weather conditions. Just remember that any grease dries out after awhile so it will need to be wiped off and reapplied. In that respect it is not as user friendly as a wet lube.

My recommendation is to stay away from the very thin lubricants as they may work well for preventing rust and corrosion they disappear almost immediately once the gun heats up. One place thin lubes do have some merit is in cold weather as many of the normal wet lubes gum up – my experience with TW25B in the cold has been excellent so it would be a top choice.

The procedure I use for lubricating a 1911 is as follows;

1. Make sure the pistol is clear, magazine removed, then lock the slide to the rear.

2. Apply lube on the slide rails and around the barrel.

3. Apply lube to the top of the disconnector immediately in front of the breach face on top of the frame rails.

4. Ease the slide forward until it is almost into battery – then apply lube to the barrel hood (the portion on the barrel that you can see in the ejection port). Lubricant here is super important as it is the highest friction point in the gun. Each and every time a round is chambered the barrel hood rubs the inside of the slide therefore it is critical to keep this area wet.

5. After the slide is all the way in battery apply lube in front of the cocked hammer so it can seep down into the sear/disconnector/hammer hooks area.

At this point, rack the slide and dry fire the pistol multiple times – this will help distribute the lube throughout the handgun.

Wipe off the excess with a rag and now you are ready to go. This much lube is probably not needed for carry use and may stain your clothing but the lubrication points remain the same – just be conservative with the dosage.

[Frisco Pete]

The Wilson Combat® 10 Steps to 1911 Magazine Maintenance


1) Beware of tube dents- if a magazine gets stepped on at the range-check for tube denting/dings that may prevent free follower travel and cause failures to feed.

2) Look for ejector contact- in the myriad of 1911 pistols on the market there are no standard dimensions for extended ejectors-make sure your magazine lips do not strike the bottom of your ejector causing tube or ejector damage-have ejector fitted as needed.Wilson Combat Magazines

3) Visually check the top rear of your magazine lips for cracks that may induce malfunctions. Only buy magazines with thick, heat-treated tubes that are engineered not to crack during use.

4) When a magazine won’t freely eject, the feed lips may be spreading due to upward pressure from the follower or poor heat treatment. Feed lips that have spread cannot be fixed and the magazine tube must be replaced. Buy magazines with parallel lips and heat- treated tubes that resist spreading.

5) Failure to lock the slide back on the last round may indicate a worn follower, spring or both-when cycling the slide slowly by hand, your magazine should briskly lock the slide lock up into the slide notch. Followers and springs should be regularly inspected and replaced as needed. Never stretch a spring to restore function!

6) Failure to feed on the last round can also indicate that your magazine springs have fatigued to the point where the follower can’t keep pace with the cycling of the slide-replace springs on a schedule or as needed.

7) If you keep your magazines loaded or use them daily, consider replacing the springs annually to preserve flawless magazine function.

8.) Magazines should be disassembled and cleaned anytime they are dropped in a dusty or sandy environment or are heavily fouled with firing residue-Cleaning with solvent is OK, but do not use more than the slightest amount of lubricant. Buy magazines that are easy to disassemble for cleaning and maintenance.

9) Pistol magazines should be clean and dry at all times. If exposed to moisture, your magazine springs should be cleaned to prevent the springs from rusting. Consider magazines with stainless steel springs around corrosive, hard-use environments.

10) For duty or carry magazines consider upgrading to metal basepads to prevent damage when loaded magazines are dropped on a hard surface. Traditional, spot-welded baseplates can be prone to popping off during speed reloads-for hard use, buy magazines with floorplates that lock on the tube via mechanical means.