Ways to Increase Fuel Economy

[Happy Hunter]

Tranny went out on my '97 Ram this winter. I still havent decided if it's worth the $ to fix   

[SLO]

Best way to get better fuel mileage from that rig is to sell it, take the cash, and buy something more fuel efficient.

Pretty much.  Gas prices WILL continue get higher from this point.  Be realistic, even with the best driving and all kinds of expensive mods you still wont get close to decent mileage.  While a Honda CRX may look small and is *gasp* an import, it will serve you better then that truck for years to come.  The money you save on gas could buy you something better down the line. 

[vorlons]

See below for 104 tips on saving fuel while driving.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/hypermiling-driving-tips-ecodriving.php

[Grnrngr]

Tranny went out on my '97 Ram this winter. I still havent decided if it's worth the $ to fix   

I was at the local parts store/machine shop the other day and a couple guys in there were talikng about how business for several of the local shops and parts stores has taken a big hit, some of them are seriously hurting, then read an article about how Home Depot is shutting down some stores because the housing situation has bit into their business as well. If I was a paranoid kinda a guy, I might start thinking there was somwthing wrong here. Don't know if the S has actually hit the fan, but there sure does seem to be some stinky breeze blowing around..I do feel fortunate, though, to be able to remember when I could fill the 20 gal tank in my 68 GTX for like $10 and go racing all nite..Aahhh jeez..fast cars and hot summer nites, girls in tube tops and tight shorts, just the raw sound of power when those secondarys go WFO, the tires scream and the streetlites go hazy in a cloud of tire smoke....guess it's the end of an era fer sure...

[1952Sniper]

Actually, its not impossible.  Most (Not all) engines actually over fuel at start up to ensure a start.  You typcially need a fuel rich mixture for this to happen.  Remember not so long ago cars with chokes?  Now, not sure how much fuel that is in comparison to the fuel burnt idling, but it does go rich and burn more fuel temporarily until it reachs stable low idle speed.  In fact, in some cases it might be 2 to 3 times the amount of fuel normally needed to sustain idle!

What I was saying is impossible is that it takes 5 minutes worth of fuel at idle just to start it.  Even with a rich mixture and fuel waste during starting, it can't be more than a few seconds worth of fuel at idle speed that is wasted.  Like I said, when starting, it will give the engine what it needs to start internal combustion as the starter motor turns the engine. 

When you're doing a cold start, it's going to take more fuel.  But we're not talking about cold starts.  We're talking about turning it off at stoplights and drive-thru windows.  The engine is already warm.  It's already at operating temperature.  The oil is already warm and still adhering to the moving parts from when it was shut off as the vehicle came to a stop.  Cranking it back up will take much less fuel than a cold start.

My '01 Dodge Ram 2500 gets 21mpg at 70mph, and 28mpg at 60mph.

Yep.  My Yaris gets about 39-40 mpg at 70 mph, and since I slowed down to 60 mph, the fuel mileage went up to about 46 mpg.  I'm doing a test now at 55 mph, hoping to get past the 50 mpg mark.

Reducing weight, keeping tire pressure up, coasting, reducing idle, slow acceleration, and keeping speed down will do much more than any bolt-on doodad will do.

Yea, and if you're drafting on me in my truck you're going to get a good, old fashioned, NASCAR brake check!!

I agree - drafting is a very bad idea.  It's dangerous and rude.  I refuse to do it.

Can't say about all front wheel drive cars, but I broke the hanger on the car that the motor mount attaches to, by bump starting with the clutch. I know of several others that have done this as well, except in emergency situations, I would strongly advise against habitual rolling starts using the clutch on FWD vehicles (especially Chrysler/Mitsubishi products) not to mention it puts additional wear on the clutch itself.

Wow.  That shouldn't happen.  If it's breaking the motor mount, they're using the wrong gear.  I admit that I was hesitant to start using rolling starts to get the engine going again, fearing that it was hard on the equipment.  But if you choose the right gear, it should be very smooth.  You only need to get the engine turning enough to start the combustion process (firing of the spark plugs) again.  Ideally, you'd choose the right gear so that when you let out the clutch, it spins up the engine to just above idle speed.  I do it every day, and it's as smooth as if I had just let out the clutch with the engine never having been shut off. 

Sure, it will put more wear on the clutch over time.  But I think if you did the math on it to compare the fuel saved over tens of thousands of miles to the decreased life of the clutch (which wouldn't be that much if you're choosing the proper gear to restart), you'd still be money ahead. 

[bmartens02]

Thanks for the advise.  I already drive really conservatively.  I never need to go above 55 mph, and I don't.  I ease it up to speed and coast a lot.  I only commute about 12 or so miles a day, so I'm not real concerned about it.  I drive my motorcycle whenever I can.  I basically only use the truck when its raining, really windy, cold, or if I need to haul stuff.
The only reason I have this truck is because my '86 S-10 was crapping out.  The heater/ac didn't work, the engine would rev randomly, the tranny was starting to show signs of giving out, and it was a bit to small for what I needed it for most the time.  My dad just bought himself a new truck and so he gave me his old one.

[jblomenberg16]

Actually, its not impossible.  Most (Not all) engines actually over fuel at start up to ensure a start.  You typcially need a fuel rich mixture for this to happen.  Remember not so long ago cars with chokes?  Now, not sure how much fuel that is in comparison to the fuel burnt idling, but it does go rich and burn more fuel temporarily until it reachs stable low idle speed.  In fact, in some cases it might be 2 to 3 times the amount of fuel normally needed to sustain idle!

What I was saying is impossible is that it takes 5 minutes worth of fuel at idle just to start it.  Even with a rich mixture and fuel waste during starting, it can't be more than a few seconds worth of fuel at idle speed that is wasted.  Like I said, when starting, it will give the engine what it needs to start internal combustion as the starter motor turns the engine. 

When you're doing a cold start, it's going to take more fuel.  But we're not talking about cold starts.  We're talking about turning it off at stoplights and drive-thru windows.  The engine is already warm.  It's already at operating temperature.  The oil is already warm and still adhering to the moving parts from when it was shut off as the vehicle came to a stop.  Cranking it back up will take much less fuel than a cold start.

Think we're definitely in agreement, although in my experience even a hot start requires a fuel rich mixture, just not as rich as a cold start.  But, that point is moot.   It does take more fuel to start that it would to idle for say 3 or 4 seconds, but when you idle for extended time, it definitely uses more fuel than you would by restarting.  That might be where the quote came from another post about if you idle for more than 30seconds, you save fuel by shutting off and restarting. Due to the noisy nature of my diesel, I have to stop/start every time I go to the bank, drive thru, etc. anyway, but don't shut it off in traffic to save the wear and tear on the starter.

It's amazing how much a factor speed is, isn't it?  You and I have have documented two cases where slowing down by 10 mph has improved our mileage by 15-30%!!!  That's a lot more bang for your buck than adding exhaust, air filters, and other fancy gizmos.  Actually, it puts more money in your pocket.

Yesterday I took a state highway to work instead of the interstate.  Rather than 70mph on the interstate (and usually I'm running late so I'm doing 75+), I set the cruise on 60mph on the highway.  Total trip time increased by only a couple of minutes over the 25 or so miles, and most of that was due to the route more than anything.   

Just figuring some rough numbers on that:

Distance Traveled on interstate at 70mph = 25 miles / 21mpg = 1.2gallons of fuel used x $4.25/gallon = $5.10 one way x round trip - $10.20 trip cost.
Distance Traveled on state hw at 60 mph = 30 miles / 28mpg = 1.07gallons of fuel used x$4.25/gallon = $4.55 one way x round trip - $9.10 trip cost.

So, if I take that route the 2-3 days a week I need to drive this route for work, I can save:

$1.10 saved per trip x 2 trips/week x 50 weeks/yr (don't go when I'm on vacation) = $110 save per year.  3 days a week I'd save $165.

I think that small cars like the Yaris will continue to gain popularity for their fuel friendliness.  What I think we'll see in the not so distant future is an increase in the use of diesels in the small cars, much like in Europe and the rest of the world, to make them even more fuel friendly.  Today's diesels are cleaner than ever before, offer great performance in a small package, and typically are 20-30% more efficient for the same power output than a gasoline engine. 

Even if diesels don't make it into the small cars, I think direct injected gasoline engines will, as well as engines with small turbochargers.  Those two technologies on a gasoline engine can improve efficiency significantly as well.

[1bdmar]

Get rid of the V-8 and buy a bike or a moped!

[1952Sniper]

Thanks for the advise.  I already drive really conservatively.  I never need to go above 55 mph, and I don't.  I ease it up to speed and coast a lot.  I only commute about 12 or so miles a day, so I'm not real concerned about it.  I drive my motorcycle whenever I can.  I basically only use the truck when its raining, really windy, cold, or if I need to haul stuff.
The only reason I have this truck is because my '86 S-10 was crapping out.  The heater/ac didn't work, the engine would rev randomly, the tranny was starting to show signs of giving out, and it was a bit to small for what I needed it for most the time.  My dad just bought himself a new truck and so he gave me his old one.

If that is the case, then I would definitely look into the Fitch Fuel Catalyst.  The way it works is supposedly by returning the fuel to a "freshly refined" state.  If you only use your truck sparingly, then it's probably a long time between fill-ups.  That gas is sitting in there degrading, and costing you gas mileage when it gets burned.  The Fitch Fuel Catalyst should be able to give you pretty good results, if the reports and reviews I've read are accurate.

I think that small cars like the Yaris will continue to gain popularity for their fuel friendliness.  What I think we'll see in the not so distant future is an increase in the use of diesels in the small cars, much like in Europe and the rest of the world, to make them even more fuel friendly.  Today's diesels are cleaner than ever before, offer great performance in a small package, and typically are 20-30% more efficient for the same power output than a gasoline engine.

Even if diesels don't make it into the small cars, I think direct injected gasoline engines will, as well as engines with small turbochargers.  Those two technologies on a gasoline engine can improve efficiency significantly as well.

Personally, I don't see diesel cars ever gaining popularity here.  Hell, diesel is already way more costly than gasoline.  The added demand from a whole new line of diesel vehicles will push the price even higher, to the point where it's not economical to drive one regardless of the fuel efficiency.  Considering that this country already uses a LOT of diesel for big trucks, farm equipment, machinery of all sorts, home heating in winter, etc., I think we're already overburdened on diesel.  For the foreseeable future, I think the improvements in fuel efficiency will have to come from gasoline and ethanol.  Of course ethanol is a big LOSER, but nobody seems to be able to convince the politicians of that.  And unless/until we get a huge biodiesel industry off the ground, the price of diesel at the pump will continue to rise more quickly than gasoline.

It's kind of sad, really, because diesel is by far the smarter choice.  But a barrel of oil will only yield so much diesel, and gasoline is the bulk of what you get from a barrel of oil.  Take a look here: http://www.energy.ca.gov/gasoline/whats_in_barrel_oil.html

On average, a barrel of oil yields 51.4% gasoline and only 15.3% distillate fuel oil (diesel is in this range).  So you can see that gasoline still has to be used in quantities greater than 3 times that of diesel to keep things balanced.  A dramatic rise in diesel usage from new vehicles would cause a huge spike that would defeat the whole purpose.

Probably the best solution is to go to all-electric vehicles, powered by a bunch of new nuclear power plants.  We just need better battery technology to make electric cars viable in the quantities we'd need.

[Blakeman]

Best economy would be to get ahold of an old VW diesel rabbit, and create a kit for converting used cooking oil into biodiesel in your backyard. I have been researching it and it does not seem to be complicated at all, and would basically create 'free' fuel for your small diesel engine.

This probably isnt something everyone would want to do, and I really do believe the fact that its so easy to create is part of the problem, since any Joe Schmoe could create a start up company making it, making large corporations for fuel needs obsolete. Fossil Fuel companies want their new 'drug' to be something that is not easy to produce so that they can corner the market and have complete control over pricing....

[1952Sniper]

This probably isnt something everyone would want to do, and I really do believe the fact that its so easy to create is part of the problem, since any Joe Schmoe could create a start up company making it, making large corporations for fuel needs obsolete. Fossil Fuel companies want their new 'drug' to be something that is not easy to produce so that they can corner the market and have complete control over pricing....

Not only that, but the States get pissy about it if you make your own fuel.  I remember reading a story a few weeks or months ago about a guy who set up his own still for making biodiesel.  He was living the good life, making his own fuel, until he got a letter from the State telling him that he owed them thousands of dollars.  They said he had to be licensed to make fuel, and that he owed them all kinds of fees and taxes.  Last I heard, he was still fighting it.

Oh yes, the States get very pissy if you don't buy commercial fuels and pay them their 'fair share'.

[etdbob]

Try this on: My gf says fill it up when it's cool, like in the morning, when the gas is denser. Keep more than 1/2 a tank to limit evap and pump slow to limit aeration during fueling. Could be in my head, but the needle does seem to be going down slower...

Gas is stored in underground tanks. It's temp and density isn't going to change.

I've gotten pretty good at hypermilling in my Kia 4x4. It's rated at 18 to 25 mpg and I can get 33 mpg out of it.
Hypermilling doesn't seem to make much difference in my lightweight Ford Festiva. It's so light it doesn't have much momentum.

Also, when coasting with the engine off, use the park brake to moderate your speed, and save the accumulated vacuum in your power assisted brakes for emergency stops.

 

[Grnrngr]

Also, when coasting with the engine off, use the park brake to moderate your speed, and save the accumulated vacuum in your power assisted brakes for emergency stops.

Maybe if you have a hand brake and are used to using it, since most foot actuated e-brakes require pulling a lever to disengage the brake, and the e-brake only functions on the rear wheels, that can be extermely dangerous in some situations... mountain driving comes to mind..

[1952Sniper]

Gas is stored in underground tanks. It's temp and density isn't going to change.

You may be right for locations up north.  Down south, I would disagree.  When the storage tank is a couple of feet below the pavement on a 102-degree day with the hot sun pounding on it, the gas in that tank is going to heat up.  And gasoline, unlike water, has a very dramatic change in density with temperature.

Not to mention that when pumping, more vapor expands and escapes in the heat of the day than in the morning.

Another way to squeeze as much fuel mileage as possible is to never fill the tank completely.  Keep it below half a tank and just fill up more often.  Gasoline weighs about 6.25 pounds per gallon (it fluctuates with temperature).  If your truck has a 20 gallon tank, you're carrying around 125 pounds of fuel when it's full.  Keeping it at half a tank cuts the weight in half (duh).  That's a difference of 63 pounds.  Not earth-shattering, but still significant.  You always get the best fuel mileage when you're getting toward the bottom of the tank due to the vehicle being lighter.

[negator]

diy electric car conversion
http://www.nbc5i.com/community/16330040/detail.html