Author Topic: Siegler Oil Stove / Furnace (function & restoration)  (Read 4763 times)

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Messiah Jones

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Siegler Oil Stove / Furnace (function & restoration)
« on: November 16, 2009, 11:46:07 PM »
 I have a Siegler 4247u1 stove that I want to use in our cabin. I need to learn how it works so I can repair it. I may also need parts but we'll see. I figured someone here would know a little about them.

 Is the pump necessary or can it be gravity fed? It's rusty and missing some knobs, I seriously doubt the thermostat works. I'd be OK with removing any features that aren't absolutely necessary for the heat to work, and OK with having to turn it off manually if it gets too warm inside. It's just a weekend place.

 I believe it can run on No.1 or Kerosene. My Great Grandma had one just like this in her house as the only heat source. I have a lot of memories of that stove so it'd be cool to get this one working. I know electric is easier but I want something for when the power goes out. There's already a wood-burning stove in another part of the cabin but this would sure be easier.

 Thanks for any help. All advice is welcome!

 Mine is just like this one I found on eBay. There's an electric pump and blower that will have to be rewired. I really don't think I can get the thermostat working though, and have yet to try the pump.


« Last Edit: January 18, 2012, 11:37:06 AM by Messiah Jones »
"Some people think that the best way to stop the leopard is to cut the horns off the gazelle. This, my friends, is insane."

BillyBang

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Re: Siegler Oil Stove / Furnace (function & restoration)
« Reply #1 on: November 17, 2009, 10:10:24 PM »
I have a gravity feed carburator off a Coleman home space heater (#1 fuel),
that I'll send you for shipping cost.
Looks to me like you could make it work on that one.

PM me if you're interested.

Messiah Jones

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Re: Siegler Oil Stove / Furnace (function & restoration)
« Reply #2 on: November 17, 2009, 11:23:45 PM »
PM sent! I think I would rather have a gravity fed version anyway for when the power is out. I can get a fan that works when it heats up and requires no electricity. Still, I don't really understand how it all works and I need to learn about it.

Advice is welcome.  8)
"Some people think that the best way to stop the leopard is to cut the horns off the gazelle. This, my friends, is insane."

Messiah Jones

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Re: Siegler Oil Stove / Furnace (function & restoration)
« Reply #3 on: January 18, 2012, 11:36:26 AM »
 I know this is an OLD thread, but it's mine and still relevant to me.

 I'm trying to get this thing going using the Coleman carb I got from BillyBang. I'm having trouble finding info online. I have the stove installed with a flu and chimney that are in spec. I've had it working on and off for a few weeks. I can't seem to get a consistent flow of fuel. I was hoping someone knew some some tips and tricks for cleaning and lighting.

 I was under the impression it could run on kerosene. I could be wrong and also don't know if this Coleman carb will work with kerosene.

 Thanks for any help.

"Some people think that the best way to stop the leopard is to cut the horns off the gazelle. This, my friends, is insane."

Tazman 442

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Re: Siegler Oil Stove / Furnace (function & restoration)
« Reply #4 on: January 18, 2012, 03:29:27 PM »
I've had and ran several over the years using fuel oil, kerosene, and diesel fuel. K-1 burns hotter faster and cleaner with nice blue flame, diesel sooty. When really cold I used to add K-1 to the fuel oil so it didn't jell up.

Messiah Jones

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Re: Siegler Oil Stove / Furnace (function & restoration)
« Reply #5 on: January 18, 2012, 06:10:13 PM »

 I got the carb off and checking flow. As long as the carb is full up to the "oil level" line I get good flow on high. The problem is that I can't seem to keep the carb filled up. I can't get fuel into the carb fast enough it seems. I took the filter out and that didn't speed it up. The channels are clear as I just took it apart and cleaned it.

 :banghead:
"Some people think that the best way to stop the leopard is to cut the horns off the gazelle. This, my friends, is insane."

Tazman 442

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Re: Siegler Oil Stove / Furnace (function & restoration)
« Reply #6 on: January 18, 2012, 08:15:49 PM »
check inline for a bronze screen type filter kinda like the old GM carb ones. Make sure feed line out of tank is higher than feed line into carb. Need enough fuel for gravity feed to work a gallon or two may not do. Remember its a flow system and its very slow. Also check the feed hole in the bottom of the burner pot make sure its clear they get rusted and sooted inside. Most zigglers have a little lever you lift to prime the carb and get the fuel flowing.

Messiah Jones

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Re: Siegler Oil Stove / Furnace (function & restoration)
« Reply #7 on: January 19, 2012, 03:34:49 AM »

 Thanks. I've done everything you said except checking the feed hole in the burner pot (only because I'm not on location right now). When I get there this weekend I'm going to try the cleaned carb one more time. I tinkered with it all day. I feel like I understand it completely. The carb seems to be nothing more than a convenience item which basically regulates fuel flow based on gravity pressure. I think it's there only because back in the day, when people depended on this thing all day during the winter, they didn't want to mess with the flow rate constantly. It's like a manual thermostat that just kept the same flow rate regardless how full the fuel tank was. Since this is just a cabin and I have tons more work to do I think I'll just regulate it with two ball valves. It will need adjusting as the fuel tank loses pressure but I can deal with it for one winter while I get the plumbing done.

 By all means please keep advising here! My theories are that and nothing more. I often think I understand a concept until it presents itself in real life.

 I could use advice on cleaning the stove itself. I used a Shop-Vac to suck out all the soot in the pot as well as a massive rat condo. I see a lot of seep holes in the pot and wonder if the flow should be high enough so that fuel comes out of all of them. On first prime I get flow from several holes... later it's just a small flow from the 12 O'Clock bottom hole. It almost looks like a pilot light. What do I know?
"Some people think that the best way to stop the leopard is to cut the horns off the gazelle. This, my friends, is insane."

Tazman 442

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Re: Siegler Oil Stove / Furnace (function & restoration)
« Reply #8 on: January 19, 2012, 02:15:51 PM »
Did you remove the center tin burner from the pot? It just lifts out then you should have a pot made of cast iron about the size of a coffee can. theres normally 1 hole in the corner where the feed from the carb comes in. About a 1/4" hole with a slight taper into the bottom of the pot. If your pot has an air hole in the center all the way up even to the sides of the pot it may feed from the center of the pot. Not sure about multiple feed holes. My buddy had the same one in your pic and i did it but that was 15 years ago,lol.

To clean the pot use wire brush & scraper of some type. To clean feed holes stainless gun brushes with a cut down pistol cleaning rod is perfect. Plan on getting real dirty,lol.

Once you get it done and working find an old metal refrigator drawer to set on top 1/2 full of water. Keeps humidity in the air and makes it real comfortable.
I would take an old zigler to heat the garage anyday, they just work!

Messiah Jones

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Re: Siegler Oil Stove / Furnace (function & restoration)
« Reply #9 on: January 19, 2012, 06:11:40 PM »

 This thing looks like a coffee can with about 50 holes in it. I've seen oil seep from the one main hole in the corner mostly. But when I first try to prime the thing up it comes from multiple holes at varying heights. Maybe it was just flooded and there was oil coming through air holes?

 In any case I've played with the carb enough to see that the input can't keep up with the output - so it's burns out. I've tried adjusting it but I think I'm just going to make my own flow valve. It may not be as convenient but it will get me through this winter. I think this is safe. Please let me know if anyone thinks otherwise.  :-s
"Some people think that the best way to stop the leopard is to cut the horns off the gazelle. This, my friends, is insane."

Tazman 442

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Re: Siegler Oil Stove / Furnace (function & restoration)
« Reply #10 on: January 19, 2012, 07:15:58 PM »
Yours may have a 2 peice pot with air holes around the outer part and top of inner part. The center should pull out to clean pot. The hole in corner is your main inlet-feed hole. Remember its only has about 1/4" to 1/2" of oil in it while its running. How the carb usually works is the turn valve adjust the float in the carb. The carb then bleeds fuel into the pot at the same level as the carb. As the fuel burns away the carb allows more fuel in till it equalizes with the level in the carb. Needless to say it must be level and the carb must be level also. The float in the carb only keeps the carb from over filling its bowl. Its like having 2 cans of water with a hose between them, they will equal themselves. As the pot gets hot the small amount of flame will heat the oil in it spreading it out and then the can part with all the holes will allow the gasses to flow up through the holes and then it will burn a nice blue and orange flam looking like a kerosene heater once its up to temp. Oil flowing out of the holes in the burner tin is too much oil in the pot. It takes a good 20-30 min running to get going good. I messaged you my number if you need more help.

Messiah Jones

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Re: Siegler Oil Stove / Furnace (function & restoration)
« Reply #11 on: January 23, 2012, 10:45:55 PM »
Tazman 442 , thanks for the help. I was out there over the weekend and took your advice and it worked! You were also right about it being a two piece pot. Once we got it going it ran like a champ.

 I need to experiment with it some more because I never saw that "nice blue and orange flame" you were talking about. I think we had it running too hot for a while too. There was so much heat coming off the sides and back that the wood walls got extremely hot. I opened the fuel tank to check the level and the kerosene was actually steaming out! There is 8" of space between the single-wall flue and the pine wood wall. This can be changed but I'd rather just put up some kind of shield if it exists. But I'm thinking we just had it running way too hot. It was 20* in the cabin and the ceiling isn't finished yet so we were pushing it very hard. Is there a flame height maximum or should I just look for that color?
 
"Some people think that the best way to stop the leopard is to cut the horns off the gazelle. This, my friends, is insane."

Tazman 442

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Re: Siegler Oil Stove / Furnace (function & restoration)
« Reply #12 on: January 23, 2012, 11:37:50 PM »
Once it warms up the flame should only be a few inches out the holes in the tin insert and burn bluish red/orange like a gas stove. It takes a while to warm up good. Usually the first 3 settings are plenty unless its really cold. May to to run a while to get the crap burned out. Keep your fuel tank several feet away if not outside.

Messiah Jones

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Re: Siegler Oil Stove / Furnace (function & restoration)
« Reply #13 on: January 24, 2012, 09:55:43 AM »


OK -

As far as the fuel tank is concerned though, it's mounted on the back of the stove. It's like that from the factory. I always thought that was a little scary but figured they knew how to build them. :-s
"Some people think that the best way to stop the leopard is to cut the horns off the gazelle. This, my friends, is insane."

Tazman 442

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Re: Siegler Oil Stove / Furnace (function & restoration)
« Reply #14 on: January 24, 2012, 04:04:45 PM »
Never seen that before but considering K-1 heaters are all like that I guess its safe. Make sure you have a good filter that's important. Any diesel type will work.