Author Topic: Bedding an SKS  (Read 2336 times)

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ARMYMP

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Bedding an SKS
« on: April 26, 2010, 05:41:23 PM »
Anyone tried this and had any luck improving accuracy? if so where did you do most of the bedding?

99Tarbox

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Re: Bedding an SKS
« Reply #1 on: April 26, 2010, 08:15:57 PM »
Just bedded the complete action and the first two inches of the barrel in a newly cut stock.  Haven't checked for accuracy yet though.  I'll report on that when I try it out.

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txballer51

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Re: Bedding an SKS
« Reply #2 on: April 27, 2010, 01:34:25 PM »
got some acraglas the other day at the gunshop, to be honest, it looks like a pretty strenous task since all the action comes together in the stock. there isn't really a channel all the way down the barrel and receiver. Maybe I am looking at this the wrong way.... any tips will be Greatly appreciated..... Pleasant Shooting Everyone
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cmchap76

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Re: Bedding an SKS
« Reply #3 on: April 28, 2010, 09:30:21 AM »
I tried to bed my SK the first night I had her home. My wife kicked us to the couch.....
“The only way you going to stop this is you have to leave one laying in the grass. That‘s the only way you’re going to stop it.”-Earl Jones

txballer51

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Re: Bedding an SKS
« Reply #4 on: April 28, 2010, 02:00:08 PM »
Not exactly the style of reply I was looking for, but I did laugh... thanks :chairfall
"Liberty is only an illusion without the blued steel and dry powder that make it real"

LS6TT

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Re: Bedding an SKS
« Reply #5 on: April 28, 2010, 02:02:19 PM »
search.

this was talked about before.  Not much is going to come from it

Spinich

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Re: Bedding an SKS
« Reply #6 on: April 28, 2010, 02:03:31 PM »
Hmph, I don't think it is really worth doing on an SKS...just my personal opinion though. These things are not and were never meant to be 'tack drivers'.
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SMLE

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Re: Bedding an SKS
« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2010, 02:51:31 AM »
I have on my norinco It needed it, the inletting on the stock was shocking. My groups are now about a 3rd of what they were I can now put 5 shots into about an inch at 50 yards with Barnaul Sp's with open sights,I also lightened the the trigger. I was dubious about buying a SKS but Since I have got it shooting right its turned into my favourite hunting rifle most of my shots are taken at under 100 yrds and any thing that I have shot hasn't needed a second shot. The next thing I intened to do to it is put a Leupold compact scope with a choate mount on it.     

magnut

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Re: Bedding an SKS
« Reply #8 on: May 01, 2010, 12:30:08 PM »
I think you benefit more from bedding on contact points.  What you want is a nice tight fit with the stock.  Many rifles OEM stocks have this already.  I think it helps a pretty fair amount on aftermarket stocks with no crossbolts.  Many of these stocks have quite a bit of play front to rear.

The useless accuracy mod on the SKS seems to be frefloating a barrel.  Thats something that just doesnt really work due to design.


SMLE

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Re: Bedding an SKS
« Reply #9 on: May 01, 2010, 07:10:33 PM »
In my experience glass bedding will help any rifles accuracy especially a rifle made in china probably made by slave labour. Because how well the action is fitted into the stock is one of the most important factors contributing to a rifles accuracy as long as other things are equal like the barrel, crown, headspace and good trigger etc. You will notice if you have a look at Springfield's website They glass bed there m1a match rifles with walnut stocks as a matter of course and I don't think you can float the barrels on them ether and they shoot well I would  love to get my hands one of those but they cost $5000 here. Not saying of course that a SKS will ever shoot as well as a M1A but maybe if I put descent scope on my rifle and load some decent projectiles into some rounds and see what Mr Simonov's design is capable of off a bench at 100 yards. Like I said in my earlier post bedding my rifle's action with a bit of JB Weld  has made a vast improvement I can get 5 shots into almost an inch at 50 yards now, before when the barrel got hot the groups would sometimes open up to 6 inch's and the zero wander all over the place so the potential is there. I will post a range report.

Lone Eagle

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Re: Bedding an SKS
« Reply #10 on: May 01, 2010, 11:34:36 PM »
When I put mine in the T6 stock, I didn't shave the stock.  I laid the stock in the oven on 125 degrees for about 10 minutes.  Then, I used 2 2x4s and a C-clamp to press the receiver/barrel in the stock.  I can remove the receiver/barrel from the stock, but it's tight.  It's just as tight going back.  It tightened up the groups both 50 and 100 yds, and I can tap the 200 yd gong 3 out of 5 shots rapid fire(1 second between shots per range rules).  As stated, this rifle will never be a tack driver, but tightening up the fit will help some. 
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SMLE

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Re: Bedding an SKS
« Reply #11 on: May 02, 2010, 02:22:02 AM »
What a brillant Idea I will have to remember that one.

dennis53

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Re: Bedding an SKS
« Reply #12 on: May 05, 2010, 08:52:32 AM »
Hello,
I have a Yugo SKS in the original stock. The results from bedding the action and the stock have been well worth the effort.

First, I bedded a 1" area directly in front of the magazine. After applying release agent and modeling clay liberally in front of the mag, I reassembled the rifle and poured acra glas (the thin kind) directly in two small gaps between the barrel and the stock directly in front of the step in the barrel. These gaps are original to the gun and I did not enlarge them. I also put clay in the stock about one inch in front of the mag cutout to keep the epoxy from flowing down the barrel channel. With the rifle right-side up and horizontal, I poured in epoxy and let gravity do its work. Make sure you don't get any epoxy near the front hinge of the mag.

Next, I  bedded another point at the front of the rifle. I inletted a spot at the front of the cleaning rod channel to allow for a 10-32 rod coupler. I put a 10-32 screw in the back of the coupler and blocked the cleaning rod slot and the front of the rod coupler with clay. Then I filled behind and on top of the rod coupler with acraglass gel, then reassembled the rifle. You could put up-pressure on the barrel at this point in time,  but I just used neutral pressure. I lost use of the cleaning rod slot, but I gained an anchor for my 10-32 sling swivel stud. I wanted to be able to remove the stud easily whenever I clean the rifle. I did not bed the tang area as my rifle is a very tight fit as is.

Before I started I did a search to find out how to bed an sks and I came up with nothing except discouraging words like 'don't bother' or 'the sks will never shoot.'  All I can say is bedding my Yugo made the most difference of all the items I tried to help end up with an accurate rifle. Don't get me wrong, the Tech-sights, Tom's trigger job, and handloads, all contributed, but bedding is the best!
Good luck and have faith,

Dennis53














magnut

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Re: Bedding an SKS
« Reply #13 on: May 05, 2010, 10:35:21 AM »
That sounds pretty good Dennis.  If you ever get around to taking a picture I would love to get a picture of the stock areas you bedded.  I am having trouble understanding your sling swivel area.  Are you saying you used the clean rod hole to mount a sling swivel and that the base of that swivel is epoxied/bedded into the stock?

dennis53

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Re: Bedding an SKS
« Reply #14 on: May 05, 2010, 10:58:00 AM »
At the end of the stock, I bedded the 10-32 rod coupler. The coupler is nothing more than a long hex nut (about 1.25" long). The coupler has a 10-32 female internal thread running the length of the coupler. It is used to join two pieces of threaded rod.

When the rifle is assembled, the coupler is hidden behind the stamped sheet metal cover with the cleaning rod hole in it. Make sure you bed the coupler in line with the hole in the stamped metal cover.

I then purchased the swivel stud (dome) with the molded 10-32 machine bolt rather than the stud with 'wood thread' molded.

This machine screw stud comes with a 10-32 thread about 3/4" long. I am able to easily unscrew the stud anytime I want to disassemble the rifle. I tighten the stud so I have plenty of thread engagement, but the base of the stud does not bottom out. This results in a 'self-aligning' stud, something other people may object to, but the 1/4 turn slop doesn't bother me.

I will try to post some pictures, but it will be a while.

Dennis53