Lately we have been having a lot of members who have been having trouble removing the firing pin retainer from the SKS bolt. After reading the posts, and helping out a bit, I realized that a lot of the time the problem was the techniques and tools being used more than anything else.
Disassembly of the bolt is something that must be done occasionally on these rifles, and absolutely must be done when you first get the rifle, for safety reasons.
I put together this tutorial to give you some ideas and guidance on how to remove the retaining pin without damaging your bolt, or your thumb, and to make the job a little easier and less frustrating.
Hope this helps......
First , remove the receiver cover , the recoil spring, and the bolt carrier group. Separate the bolt from the carrier.
For this job, you will need the bolt, some sort of penetrating oil, like PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or Kroil.
Soak the bolt in the pentrating oil, and let it sit overnight. I mostly use the PB Blaster for this because it is cheap, and it works really well for this kind of thing.
You will also need a sturdy drift or punch, a ball peen, drilling, or small sledge hammer, somewhere in the 1lb to 2 1/2 lb range, a small hobby or gunsmith mallet (for tapping the pin back in), and an anvil surface of some sort.
The anvil surface needs to be something very solid, and for best results, some sort sort of cast iron or steel; a block of wood often does not work for this job....You can use two full steel ammo boxes, about an inch apart, side by side with the bolt on top of them and the pin over the space between the boxes; you can use two chunks of steel with the same sort of idea; you can use a vise with a hole drilled into the flat anvil on the back...I use a piece of 1 3/4 inch box steel, with a hole drilled into it. You can get something like this for a couple of dollars (or even free) from most fabrication shops, and it works very well; it also fits in my gunsmith tool box that I take with me to the range.
Place the anvil on something very solid, like a concrete floor or driveway; do not use a table or a counter top, it will not be solid enough.
Wipe the oil off the bolt after it has soaked overnight, and look at it;
The side with the extractor:
Is the side that will face DOWN , over the hole or the space in your anvil surface.
The side with the small round pin:
Is the side that faces UP, and what you will be tapping out with your drift or punch.
Place the bolt on the anvil surface, placing the larger side of the retaining pin over the hole.
Place the drift or punch on the top of the pin, make sure that it is straight, and that your hand is not leaning it one way or the other, to prevent it slipping.
Using the hammer, firmly TAP the drift or punch; check to see if the pin broke free. If the first tap does not do it, tap it a few more times; sometimes it take more than one tap.
Within a few solid taps , the pin will come out, and fall into the hole...
Once the pin is out, you can remove the firing pin and the extractor, and give the whole thing a good cleaning.
Once the parts are clean, and you have inspected everything for damage , (this is also a good time replace the original firing pin with a Murray's if you wish to) you are ready to reassemble; for this , simply fit everything back into place, and making sure that the firing pin is lined up correctly with retaining pin, use the small hobby or gunsmith mallet to tap the pin back in. If you are using the original pin, shake the bolt; the pin should rattle freely...
Give the bolt a light oil wipedown, and you are all set.
Reassemble the rifle, and head out to the range.....