So you want to buy a lathe.So you're thinking about purchasing a Lathe for your home workshop. There is a multitude of machines to choose from. And by while by no means the definitive work on the subject, here are the results of my research to help get you started.
The following lathes seem to be the most popular choices:
- 7x Seig C2 & C3: For more information, see: http://www.mini-lathe.com/. Recommendation: Too small and light for most gunsmith work.
- 8x Sieg C4: For more information, see: http://www.mini-lathe.com/m4/C4/c4.htm. Recommendation: Too small and light for most gunsmith work. YMMV.
- 9x20. This was my first lathe, and I learned a lot of the basics while using it. This lathe is heavy and perfect for work on pistols. However, it's not quite ready to work out of the box: You'll want to replace the OEM 2-bolt compound hold down with a four bolt aftermarket unit. You'll also want to upgrade the flimsy drive belt with one of the high strength ones sold on eBay, etc. And finally, you'll want to seriously consider a quick change tool post. The main downside is that the machine can be a under powered for many tasks -- especially large diameter pieces in steel. Also, it doesn't do left hand threads -- a downer for AK work. Recommendation: Good buy at $1000, but YMMV. Consider stepping up to the Sieg C6
- 10x Sieg C6 & 11x Sieg C8: Well made and accurate, with plenty of power. It's not an exaggeration to say that these lathes will run circles around the c2 & c3 lathes -- and the 9x20 for that matter. The greater torque and rigidity of the C6 let you take more aggressive cuts and get the job done faster, without sacrificing accuracy in the finished result. These lathes are heavy and perfect for work on pistols. These come in 10x22 and 11x26 versions with 1" spindle bores, which allows you to chamber *some* rifle barrels "through the head". I have seen reports that these do left hand threads and have power cross slides (but you'll want to confirm this if it's important too you). Once again, you'll want to seriously consider a quick change tool post. For more information, see: http://www.mini-lathe.com/C6_lathe/C6/c6.htm and http://www.mini-lathe.com/reviews/Lathes/Sieg_C8/C8.htm. Recommendation: Best Buy. Prefered alternative to the 9x20.
- 12x36 Chinese: This is my current lathe. It's *way* more lathe than I need, but I got it for about the same price as a Seig C8! And I can assure you that Chinese-built 12x36 lathes come fully tooled and ready to work out of the crate. Big bore head tube allow you to chamber rifle barrels "through the head". D1-4 mount allows for quick change of chucks in seconds. This gear driven lathe with power carriage and cross feed -- so make no mistake, this is a commercial class machine. Sold by Enco, Grizzly, Harbor Freight, Precision Matthews, Birmingham, etc. Recommendation: Best buy if you're intending serious work on Rifle barrels, this is your lathe. But at around $3000, consider the Sieg C6 / C8 if you don't need everything this lathe gives you.
- Used American Iron, et al: Your "new" lathe could turn end up needing a tune-up or even a rebuild before you can even use it. Recommendation: Wonderful deals can be had, but use extreme caution if you’re not an expert on judging the condition of a used machinery.
In addition to the lathe itself, you'll may need some additional items. These include:
- Tooling: You'll want to make sure you have 3-jaw and 4-jaw chucks, steady rest and follower rests, drill chuck, and live and dead centers. And don't forget the threading gears, without them you won't be able to cut threads. All these items typically come with a new machine. Purchasing them separately can rapidly drive the cost of a used machine above that of a new one. Recommendation: You'll need each of these items for typical gunsmithing tasks. If you don't get the tooling, you'll probably want to walk away from a used machine.
- Gunsmith tools: You'll want several varieties of magnetic dial indicators, a "measurement plate" for the tailstock, and a "lathe spider" (if you intend to chamber through the head).
- Cutting tools: You can grind your own bits from HSS, or you can buy carbide tipped. You can also go with the industrial solution and buy tools with replaceable carbide inserts. Frankly, I don't have the time to grind my own cutting tools, so I go with some form of carbide.
- Boring head: A boring head is essentially a big adjustable drill bit for the tailstock, used for boring holes above 1/2" or so. If you have a mill, you may already have the head and may only need to purchase a new mounting shank. Eventually you'll want a boring head, but wait till you need it before buying one -- that way you'll be able purchase the exact one you need.
- Coolant system: Most hobbyists don't need a coolant system. Recommendation: Pass.
- DRO (digital read out): Basically, this feature speeds up your measurements. Nice feature, but not a must have. Most lathes allow for retrofit of this option. Recommendation: Pass.
